After the fast disruption of yesterday (which made us stand out from the water to rest) with wind and waves displaced, now the ocean has done a nice gift: a memorable expired, with waves of 5 feet, regular, with absolutely no wind. Moreover
to have waves so big and beautiful, there must be a disturbance like the one yesterday afternoon. Yes, but how much suffering ... I was already going in for an afternoon dry paranoia ..
here today to get big waves, floods, powerful and perfect, beautiful to ride.
Since yesterday afternoon out of the water, I was already spilling, this morning I came in first in water and left at high tide this evening, last.
And I tell you so, my dear ... I'm still around ... adrenalinizzato
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