More surf and do .... The more I want to do!
Antonio Rinaldi, a psychologist, explains in this article the mechanisms that underlie our "addiction to surfing."
Often surfing for several days in a row, the desire and need, rather than subside, increases, and becomes almost impossible to imagine a future without waves.
Instead, after a long period of flat, the desire may not be as strong, so that does not count the days since the last session.
Whatever happened to surfer be "slowed down" unless hindered by some unforeseen event, while he is flying the sea to enjoy the waves, being stopped by police for simple road right on the coast, see the parade so fantastic, just the sight and feel the adrenaline of the sets already in circulation.
Feel that nothing and no one on earth can keep you there, still waiting, you could do anything to make you let go, you need it, you enter the water and paddle to the peak, as soon as possible.
to go in the water, inventing lies, architects and plan everyday situations that may give us time to surf, we go forward thinking about having to accept an invitation too far back in time to know if there are waves or not that day. Over time we develop
an incredible "selective perception", becoming capable, as we pass the 100 km highway between the gallery and the other, to recognize a wave in a bay in the distance, to see in a frame of a nanosecond of a war movie, a reef background with a left Tubantia, while no one else in cinema has noticed nothing but the expression on the face of the actor.
Not to mention the "social problems", there is in fact taking holidays, Christmas, Easter and birthdays ... so different, surf top priority!
The mechanisms underlying the surf are precisely the characteristics of a "drug addiction", with its typical aspects of addiction and abstinence. How do you explain this?
Inside our body there are certain chemicals that govern the electrochemical interactions, called endorphins, they have a molecular constitution similar to that of opioids such as morphine, are defined for this endogenous opioids.
Endorphins, hormones or happiness, are natural substances, released by the brain, produced by the pituitary, which stimulates the nervous system giving the body a sense of wellbeing and relaxation similar to that achieved by the use of medicines and drugs. Their release occurs spontaneously during sport (athletes advanced level of training employees is intense causing large release of endorphins), during strong emotions, contact with other people, while we laugh and we practice enjoyable activities. Surely
surfing assuming a contact with nature in a relatively dangerous or otherwise of great psycho-physical, is considered to be all defined extreme sport, an activity that allows a large release of such substances.
prefer a business, practicing diligently than others, we will use a given circuit constantly nervous, forming the "preferred way" of ducts through which the endorphins enter the bloodstream and this lead to a swelling of synaptic terminals, vesicles and an increase in terminations. (Weiss).
As in the good times we produce endorphins, thus drastically reduce the bad ones, during periods of blacks in our lives, when the mood becomes depressed, sharply decreases the contribution of endorphins in the blood. Feeling depressed mean not work properly, so we should be aware that our capacity for secretion of endorphins has been temporarily reduced.
Very often people looking for a solution to the problems with alcohol, tobacco or drugs and various antidepressants, but in reality what can cure us is already within us, we should be able to listen and look what can stimulate our body to leave, slowly discovering the power that we have to face obstacles.
The preference for a particular activity, but also the subsequent formation of so-called "preferential conduits for the passage of endorphins, act as a reinforcement for the subsequent implementation of the same activity, in our case, surfing. For this reason we surf more and more we will try to do it.
Surfing will be the activity by which the body will put into circulation as endogenous opioids, giving us that feeling of excitement and comfort that each of us knows very well that famous smile indelibly printed on the face, enhancing increasing our love for our beloved sport.
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