I saw him enter the water last summer to the Cote de Basques with two-meter wave. I waited, curious to see who did what he could do. So much! a couple of waves of high-level, but also a great strength and responsiveness. When I left the water stopped. He was an American on holiday in Europe. He was 67 and a physical intact. I asked him how do you get to his age and so you can still surf. He simply told me "keep smiling, everyday."
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